For sneaker marketers it used to be a simple equation: Athlete/hero plus signature shoe equals retail success. The new reality, though, is that it takes more than a high-flyer to sell sneakers.
Retailers such as Foot Locker and Footaction have basically pared down to three names when it comes to the glamour boy, signature basketball shoes — Allen Iverson (Reebok), Tracy McGrady (Adidas) and, of course, endless retro versions of Michael Jordan sneakers from Nike (Air Jordan XIX is due next year).
"Kids aren't buying sneakers on performance. Now, it's all about buying a certain look," said Bruce Blanke, a partner in five Athlete's Foot stores in the New York metro area. Forget about cushioning technology; teens today want white-on-white kicks like Nike's Air Force One, and matching the rest of the outfit is paramount.
Perhaps the sneaker industry finally is facing the truth that athletic shoes have always been bought more for fashion than function. The industry's dirty little secret is that 80 percent of athletic shoes purchased aren't bought for athletics.
More recently, however, sneaker marketers are finding it's tougher than ever to market on an athlete's back, regardless of how well-muscled it is. Of course, after no one turned out to be the second coming of Jordan (see Grant Hill, Vince Carter, et al) hero worship naturally subsided.
 |
| Entertainers like Jay-Z can steer trends in sneaker sales. |
Even those athletes who are being used have sold as much for their lifestyle as their athletic ability.
"If I'm going to compete with Nike, I have to figure out to make my athlete more than just a player," said Jon Epstein, president and CEO of Sports Brands International, the new holding company that recently purchased Fila.
Rappers are now as important in selling sneakers as athletes. Nearly every brand has commercials or grassroots efforts that include hip-hop artists.
"The entertainer's influence today is as big as the athlete," said Rubin Hanan, senior vice president of retail brand marketing at Foot Locker Inc. "It used to be about who could jump the highest; now it's all about lifestyle."
Adds Kevin Wulff, director of sports marketing at Adidas America: "It's about flair on court and how much style they have away from the game. We're focusing as much off the court as on when we're signing athletes."
No brand is leveraging the mix of musicians and athletes more than Reebok, which has resuscitated its brand by paring its once heavy athlete roster and complementing it with entertainers. More recently, Reebok is having success selling $100 Jay-Z signature shoes. A signature shoe from rapper 50 Cent is due before the end of the year.
"They [music stars] are as relevant as influencers or more so than most athletes," said Todd Krinksy, vice president of Reebok's RBK brand. "That's the change in the marketplace — there's always hip-hop music on ESPN and there's always sports programming on MTV — the two worlds are like one."
With the rules changing, there's a diversity of opinion on whether Nike's $90 million, seven-year deal with top draft pick LeBron James will pay off.
"He's been so hyped that initially he'll have to sell product. The question is whether it holds up," Hanan said.
Added Adidas' Wulff, "To live up to expectations, [James] may have to walk on water, but you know we went after him strong enough that we think he's a player who can move product for years."
Maybe even enough to get people interested in the performance side of basketball shoes again.
"There are still a lot of people looking for the next coming of Michael," Blanke said. "If LeBron can do half as well this season as Yao Ming did last season, he'll get twice as much hype. I think he'll be the real deal."
