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| Rio's opening ceremony was a stunning display of nationalism and enthusiasm. |
Near the end of Friday’s opening ceremony at the Maracanã, I remembered an old quote from American humorist David Sedaris: “Every day we’re told that we live in the greatest country on earth. … Having grown up with this in our ears, it’s startling to realize that other countries have nationalistic slogans of their own, none of which are ‘We’re number two!’”
During the four-hour show, Brazilians exploded with proud energy at any chance they could, eager for an opportunity to celebrate. They danced in their seats to samba and rap, sang along in soft unison to the string sounds of “Girl From Ipanema,” and gave a long, lusty cheer to the home team as it entered the stadium.
The ceremony felt like a nationalistic rebuttal to months of unending global media criticism -- as if Brazil was saying, “Yes, we have problems. (After all, they booed the sitting President Michel Temer lustfully.) But we are not what you make us out to be.”
Even Rio 2016 Organizing Committee President Carlos Guzman struck a defiant tone in his brief speech, drawing more proud cheers. “Remember, the children of Brazil do not run from the fight,” Guzman yelled, adding later, “Always believe in your dreams. We did not give up ours. We never give up, this is the strength of the people.”
The ceremony was a home run. Spirits were high. Beautiful imagery, honest themes and -- this might be the most important legacy -- done on a budget. With a show created by acclaimed filmmaker Fernando Meirelles, the Brazilians managed austerity and glory at the same time. We all hope the IOC and future host cities were watching closely.
Even the bus ride home for the media was pretty painless. It was a magical beginning, a moment Brazilians really, really needed, and their patriotism wasn’t what I’d expected, honestly, considering the bad news and unpopularity of the Olympics here.
But that was just one night.
The next morning, Rio 2016 confronted again its complicated reality. A two-mile bus ride from the media village took 30 minutes. Before the first rugby match at Deodoro Stadium, most of the toilets weren’t flushing. By noon, the organizing committee was already apologizing for long security lines at venues.
Around the same time, there was a shocking development at the equestrian venue. A military-grade bullet tore through the roof of the media tent. Rio 2016 and witnesses still don’t know quite what to make of it; it doesn’t appear that the venue was targeted, but still!
At the U.S.-China basketball game Saturday night, the food stands barely outlasted China’s chance of victory. Vendors were out of everything but hot dogs well before halftime. Wayfinding signs for fans were woefully inadequate, and beer lines were 15 to 30 minutes long.
But then we took in the first night of swimming, and Brazilians had a new reason to cheer: Two of their swimmers qualified for tonight’s 100-meter men’s breaststroke finals. The exuberance returned again.
This country has soured on the Olympics as a political issue. But in my first week here, I see now that certain things eclipse the politics and economics of the Games. Understandably, Brazilians’ sense of patriotism is triggered when they feel under attack, and their pride is hanging on every little detail here. Let’s hope there are more days like Friday and fewer like Saturday.
