SBD/Issue 244/Events & Attractions

N.Y. Times Restaurant Critic Unimpressed By U.S. Open Food

Food Critic Unimpressed With Overall Food
Offerings At This Year's U.S. Open

N.Y. TIMES restaurant critic Sam Sifton reviewed the food offerings at the U.S. Open, and noted, "With a couple of exceptions, I felt about the food at the Open today as I do about the food at most American airports. It was plentiful, fatty, expensive and really not very good." Sifton tried a hamburger, which "seemed a cross between a griddled dinner hamburger and an overcooked bar-menu fatboy burger," and gave the burger "about a C." Sifton noted the burger "didn't make me fell very good," but it "caused no pain." However, the fish tacos from Fresca Mexicana "left me reeling," as they were "violently bad." Sifton noted the best thing he ate was a "simple roast-chicken sandwich from the chef Jonathan Waxman: actual roast chicken chopped into a rough salad, with spinach, on crisp fried bread with a lot of olive oil on it." The sandwich is available for "under $10" and is "not bad with an iced tea." Levy Restaurants provides the "bulk of the grub" for the U.S. Open, and Sifton noted there is a "lesson for the Levys in" the sandwich. Sifton: "If you want your crowd food to be good, what you need to find in a common denominator is food that is simplicity itself" (, 9/1).

INSERT CORPORATE LOGO HERE: In N.Y., Michael Kimmelman wrote the U.S. Open is "no more corporate than Wimbledon, but it's more, well, openly so more American." Kimmelman: "The constant advertisements blasted across the midway, the slew of logos pasted everywhere and stalls selling luxury cars, Master Chef food and designer clothes." Kimmelman wrote it is "no different than any Major League Baseball park today, except that an aura of bygone exclusivity clings to the Open" (, 9/1). 

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